planet

It is a common fallacy to believe that global environmental concerns are new phenomena, however many of the anxieties that threatened early environmentalists are still with us. Such environmentalist reactions to human induced ecological changes are more than three centuries long, however we must consider that the environmental crisis has developed to a far more threatening scale (Grove 2003). Consumer habits are beginning to reflect the provision of green information by fashion retailers in order to improve their awareness in the importance of sustainability (Shen et al 2013). It is imperative that all stakeholders within the fashion industry understand that moving towards long term sustainability requires improvement across the entire fashion cycle, rather than a few isolated parts (Fletcher and Grose, 2012). The planet pillar aims to recognise the environmental impact of the fashion industry and encapsulate the drive for change that is becoming more apparent. 

Circular economy promotes the responsible and cyclical use of resources possibly contributing to sustainable development; circular economy strategies aim to preserve functions, products, components, materials or embodied energy (Moraga et al, 2019). In recent years, the circular economy model has been adopted by the fashion and cosmetics industry and the linear model is being slowly phased out. The linear economy has been highly successful in generating material wealth in the industrial nations but has come at the cost of common neglect of recycling, reusing and putting much emphasis on waste (Sariatli, 2017). A circular economy is regenerative by nature, in terms of fashion this means that materials must flow within the system and waste must be collected and appreciated as a valuable material (Niinimaki, 2017). Patrick McDowell encompassed the values of a circular economy by prolonging the value of waste fabrics from luxury brands such as Burberry and creating new garments. 

The cosmetics industry is closely related to the fashion industry and has been strongly affected by the paradigm shift towards more ecologically focused morals in consumerism. Demand for products with a low environmental impact and organic certifications that guarantee the reliability of the formulations has become massively differentiating; many companies pay particular attention to the sensitivity of their buyers toward environmentally friendly and biodegradable products, without neglecting quality (Fortunati 2020). Rates of recycling within the beauty industry is staggeringly low, with only 14% of packaging actually making it to a recycling plant and only 9% actually being recycled (British Beauty Council). Cosmetic brands are beginning to modify and revaluate their packaging design process to minimise their contribution to the environmental crisis. Lush UK has developed a cork pot packaging design which perfectly contributes to a circular business model. The pots are biodegradable and fully compostable, making them carbon positive (Lush 2023). As brands work to reduce and replace materials which contribute to the climate crisis, we can see the cosmetics industry become more regenerative. As the materials used in cosmetic production diversify to minimise risk and pressures to single ecosystems, we can see positive movements towards sustainability. 

The United Nations published an agenda for 17 sustainable development goals (SDGs) in 2015 as an urgent call for action by all countries in a global partnership (SDGs UN, 2023). Among the 17 STGs, the cosmetics industry applies itself to many in terms of environmental sustainability, however we also see progression within social sustainability. The 13th SDG aims to achieve gender equality, brands such as Chanel show commitment to non-discrimination through the Chanel foundation and the Chanel Image Cultural Platform (Fortunati, 2020). By adapting global strategies into local realities, large beauty brands are able to empower women and girls to become high achieving and driven people who are free to shape their own future (Foundation Chanel 2023).

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